Blog

Stop Number Three

Hello again weavers,

Just a little note to let you know we are still adventuring along on the More than a Mile-long Hippie Galaxie path. In other words, a very colorful journey. You can read the first post HERE, and the second post HERE. I hope you enjoy this new project, it was a lot of fun to make!            

When I was originally thinking about the idea of using color blocking for this wrap the idea was huge! I envisioned a large wall hanging of Mondrian type color sections divided by black lines of various sizes. So, I needed to pare it down to a doable size for a Rigid Heddle loom idea. Changes were made and I sliced the middle out of the original idea and came up with Not Quite Mondrian. When you look at it perhaps you can see the rest of the original plan.

To simplify the pattern, I left out the vertical solid black lines that were part of my original vision.

The next photo shows my final design decision. Get out those colored pencils! Yes, it is in my notebook - you know how much I love keeping records! You can download the free Weaving Project Page HERE.

The color blocking is made possible by a tapestry technique called single weft interlock. There are a number of different ways to execute this technique, I have also seen it referred to as interlocking weft and discontinuous weft. This also means that you can have more than 2 colors to a pick to create blocks of color. That’s where the simplification came in for this idea, I reduced the number of sections and so reduced the number of colors that needed to interlock with each other in a single row. If I had left the vertical black lines in the design, there would have been three or four colors to each pick. That being said, I encourage you to  experiment with variations of this technique.

Weft interlock is really a family of techniques.  Each technique using 2 or more colors that come together either in one shed or a combination of sheds. Each throw is not a full pick of the weft thread, they are interrupted either by another thread or by stopping within the warp itself and venturing off into a new direction.

For this design we are interrupting the pick in the approximate center of the warp using one color from the right and a second color from the left. Both colors will come up out of the warp in the same spot: 


The warp is then beat into place. Change sheds, interlock the two colors... 


...and then go back through the new shed to each respective side of the warp. Beat the pick into place and you have completed 2 picks of 2 colors each.

This technique also creates a definite right and wrong side to the fabric. I like both sides, one has more texture the other is smoother after the wet finishing process. The top side (the top of the cloth on your loom) is referred to as the wrong side.

The next two photos are taken after the wet finish process. The first is the top or wrong side of the work, the second is the reverse side. You can see the textural difference. Since this project became a closed loop scarf, you will see both sides. But my chosen side is the one with more texture and that is the side with the fringe.

Scarf Specifications

This scarf was woven using a 12-dent heddle on a rigid heddle loom with a width of 15”. The warp is 8/2 cotton used as a single thread. The warp length is approximately 100”.

To keep track of my sections I used a measuring string. This time I measured and divided the length into 10” sections and marked them with a black permanent ink pen. Your measuring string is now a pattern string. I keep mine in a marked plastic bag, so I do not have to remake it for every project. Make sure that you write down the length of your string and the number of sections so you don’t forget once it begins to be wound into your warp!

The picture below shows the string pattern circled in green.

When winding the color shuttles, you will need two at a time. After securing the first color to the shuttle, begin winding onto the shuttle counting every time you make one full rotation around the shuttle. For this color plan I counted to 20 and cut my yarn. This shuttle is loaded and ready to weave. Move onto the second color and wind the same way. This plan allowed me to have less waste on the shuttle and fewer smaller pieces of yarn, since you are using the shuttle until it is empty. You will also need to wind a shuttle with the 8/2 cotton doubled to use in between the color blocks. Depending on the way that you weave, you may want to add more yarn to your shuttles. Also, you may want to change the size of the black stripes that divide the color blocks and that will affect the amount of color. The 10” sections are just a guide to spread the colors more evenly throughout the scarf.

Begin weaving with a waste yarn to spread the warp and use waste yarn at the end of the warp.

Remember, this is only an idea! A place to start……the loom is your canvas, your thread is your palette, you are the artist.

Weave on……..

Finishing

When you are removing your warp from the loom make sure to keep your waste yarn in place. This will make it easier to complete your fringe. This scarf is finished as a continuous loop held in place by the knots at the edges of the warp.

This is just an option, personally I like a scarf that does not have ends to slip off my shoulders. So, it became an oversized, double wrap cowl. You could finish this as a straight scarf with fringe on both ends and add beads, or not, and it would be amazing!

IS THIS THE END OF THE MILE??? A resounding NO!!!

When we started this journey there were plans for 3 scarves, but since the box still has yarn in it, there is no stopping us now!

Stay tuned for a little lagniappe for your loom…….

References for this post:

www.ashford.co.nz/ashford-club (Stained Glass on the Rigid Heddle Loom)

The Weaver’s Journal Summer 1987 (Tapestry Tips)

Weave*Knit*Wear by Judith Shangold


addiExpress Q & A

addiExpress experts Hannah Mann and Karin Skacel joined some of our customers for an informal, online Q & A session. We had a number of questions submitted prior to the event, and they were able to offer insight and to those who joined us.

Did you miss the event? Well, you are in luck, because we were able to record the session. Watch the recording below:

Products mentioned in this video:




Insert Image

Stairway to the Hippie Galaxy (and beyond)!

Welcome back to the Hippie Galaxy! This is our second stop on the mile-long Bobbel Boxx journey.

Click HERE for the first blog post on this topic.

I am sure that everyone has been asking the question, “Does my wrap that I am weaving on my loom really have to be a straight-edged rectangle?” Even if you have not been asking that question, bet you are thinking about it now! We can take that straight edge and give it an angle. So, instead of a squared off rectangle (parallelogram) you will be pushing those short sides forward into a parallelogram with angled ends. Parallelogram definition: a four-sided plane rectilinear figure with opposite sides parallel. Definition from the online Oxford Languages site. This angle can be a sharp point, a gradual point, a stair step angle, etc., etc., etc. What you are weaving is 2 triangles with a rectangle in the middle.

Here are the specifications for this Hippie Wrap:

Warp and Weft are Lola yarn

Warp is 90” long and width is 15” on a 10 dent heddle

To use all the colors in the warp I divided the number of ends by the number of colors. That means, for this width (150 ends) you come up with an odd number, so you can choose to do 16 with a few less ends of the last color. Or you can add a few extra slots to several of the colors as you warp.  This is just a suggestion, based on using the colors as evenly as possible. This gives us the full range of colors available for all the wraps you are weaving. Remember, if you have a wider loom you will want to measure and center your warp in the heddle. After you have direct warped your loom, once again do NOT cut the loops at the warping peg. Just tie the warp and slip off the peg and wind on to your loom. When you are ready to thread the holes, cut one loop at a time keeping the threads separate in your hand so you have a clean warp. This is due to the fact that the yarn is not plied but you 4 separate threads acting as one yarn. This is amazing as you can see below, but you need to be a little more careful as you are threading the holes to keep the correct 4 threads together. This applies to all yarn that is not plied, such as Concentric Cotton, and Concentric Alpaca.

This wrap is a plain weave, but not so plain when you have the colors you are working with in this yarn.

This is the magic of plain weave.

When you have wound on, threaded the holes and are ready to tie on to the front apron bar, make sure when you are tying on you are using enough length so it can be used as fringe. If you use an alternate way of tying on, make sure you plan for the fringe.

Next, we need to wind our shuttle. I used only one shuttle in the project. After sitting and staring at the warp on the loom, I realized I need a plan to continue to use the colors as evenly as possible. So, counting my shuttle wraps was the answer. It may seem tedious, but it really does go fast once you get in the groove. After securing the first color to the shuttle, begin winding onto the shuttle counting every time you make one full rotation around the shuttle. For this color plan I counted to 20 and cut my yarn. This shuttle is loaded and ready to weave.

Now we need to spread our warp to get ready to weave, in the picture I used double waste yarn picks to get the warp where I needed it to be so the weaving could begin. This also stabilized the warp to start the angled weaving section.

In the picture you see strips of cardboard. I used an alternate means of tying on my warp, so the cardboard strips are part of spreading the warp to give me enough length to create fringe.

Now, here we go! I promised stair steps, and as you can see in the picture, I used the color stripes to set the width of each step. Starting my weft yarn on the right the first pick is only about 14 ends wide (your shuttle will come up out of your warp), gently beat, change sheds and send your shuttle back to the right side, gently beat and change sheds. Repeat this process with the same number of warp threads, until you have 4 rows ending again at the right side of the warp. Continue weaving each section, weaving a longer and longer row until you reach the other edge and can begin weaving full rows.

When you are weaving this angle, you will need to make sure that you are weaving a straight line perpendicular to the edge of your warp with each pick. A ruler or piece of cardboard will help you, or you can just eyeball it as you beat the weft. A soft beat is important, at this time it is very easy to change the angle of your pick. Weaving 4 rows per section will give you the stair steps, if you weave only 2 rows per section you will have a gradual angle.

The following example woven with Concentric Cotton has smoother angle and has only 2 passes with the shuttle per section. To create a sharper angle weave fewer warp ends with each pass, a softer angle weave more warp ends with each pass until you reach the other side.

Once you have completed the angled section, measure the length from the beginning of the weft to the first complete row and record this on your project page. This will help you create a matching angle once you get to the other end of your project. Of course, both ends of your scarf really don’t have to be the same.

As you continue weaving you will soon run out of weft yarn on your shuttle. Pick your next color, on my scarf I used the colors in order (they are numbered on the ball band). With this length of warp you will not have enough room to use all the colors evenly. My color bands are smaller at the end, or you can leave out a color or two if you don’t have the room. But when you begin weaving your angle try and make sure you have enough weft yarn to complete it. Load your shuttle the same way you did the first color and continue weaving until you can see the end of your warp.

When you are coming to the end of your warp, make sure you have enough room to complete your angle and fringe.

When you are ready to create the final angle of your parallelogram, you will need to shorten your weft picks starting from the left edge of your warp. When you began your scarf, you were adding warp ends. When you are beginning your final angle, you will be reducing the number of warp ends you weave until you have finished your last section.

Once you have finished your fantastic weaving, you can put in a few rows of waste yarn in the full width of the warp, just to hold all the ends together.

To set up for the fringe I do a simple overhand knot with approximately 4 ends per knot, depending on how many ends you have in each section this will vary.

Once I have twisted the fringe and woven in all the ends, I put the scarf in a lingerie bag and put it in the washer with my regular laundry in cold water wash. I remove the scarf from the bag and put it in the dryer for just a few minutes and then hang to finish drying.

Wear your amazing work of art and enjoy……..and yes, there is still yarn left to continue the journey.

Stay tuned for Not Quite Mondrian, coming soon.

Weave on…and on…..and on………..

Weave on,                          

Cynthia


About the Author:

My life in fiber arts has been a journey leading me through the forests of thread and yarn and across the plains of fabric to finally find my home in the magic of the loom. Being immersed in the crafts of sewing, knitting, crocheting, dyeing, and many things in between, has enabled me to understand many ways of approaching techniques and design in weaving and in teaching.

It’s All Right Moebius MKAL with Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog

Let's start the new year with a new, engaging (and fun!) project. Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog has partnered with us to bring you the It's All Right Möbius MKAL (mystery knit-along). 

This fun one-sided shape begins with an adventurous cast on, and because there is only one side, Ellen was clever with the name of the project. 

As we knit together, we will discover that after the cast on, and first round, the knitting is a simple progression of 10-stitch repeats and l - o - n - g rounds. Of course, we will host a forum on Ravelry, and Ellen has created a series of videos to assist from cast on to bind off!

The finished piece? Well, we can't show you exactly what it looks like, or it wouldn't be a mystery... but we promise it's a gorgeous study in geometry that you'll be proud to wear or gift.  

gather your supplies

  • 2 hanks Silbermond by Zitron (main color)
  • 1 ball Herbstwind by Zitron (accent color)
  • US size 6 (4.0 mm), or size necessary to obtain gauge, 60-inch long addi® Rocket 2 [Squared] circular needle
  • stitch marker
January 8, 2021 - Week 1 clue revealed

January 15, 2021 - Week 2 clue revealed

January 22, 2021 - Week 3 clue revealed

January 29, 2021 - Week 4 clue revealed

Each week on Friday, by 9am Pacific, we will update the pattern file on Ravelry, and we will send a notification to you that you can download the next set of instructions. Work at your own pace (remember, knitting is supposed to be fun!) and engage with your fellow makers in the Ravelry group HERE.


Moebius Project Bag

Need a fun way to remember how to do the Moebius cast on? Look no further than our exclusive instruction bag. Printed, cut, and sewn in our Kent, WA shop, this drawstring bag features detailed instructions on how to do this ingenius cast on. If you are more of a visual learner, simply scan the QR code and Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog will show you how it's done in her fantastic video.

Measures approximately 13.5 x 14.5 inches


Yarn & Needles

Zitron Silbermond

Silbermond by Zitron
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
330 m/100 g hank

(2 hanks - main color)


Herbstwind by Zitron
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
165 m/50 g ball

(1 ball - accent color)


addi© Turbo fixed circular needle
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
165 m/50 g ball

(1 ball - accent color)


Join the Makers’ Mercantile Ravelry Group HERE

Share your project photos with fellow makers!

#ItsAllRightMKAL    #MakersMercantile    #TheChillyDog

What can you do with a mile of yarn?

The answer is, so many amazing things, but today we are going to focus on how much weaving you can complete with a Bobbel Box of yarn.

The Lola yarn is a weaver’s happy place, buying yarn to use on your loom or looms (as in my case) is a little different in quantity. Buying yarn for your looms can be done by the pound! Yes, that sounds a little crazy, but to make sure you have the materials you need to complete large and/or multiple projects, buying larger quantities at a time can speed you on the way of completed projects. The Lola Box is a little over a pound of yarn (approximately 18 oz), and 2,050 yards for over a mile of yarn!

You can use your yarn stash and purchase new skeins, cakes, and balls of yarn of all types to use on your loom in conjunction with yarn you will purchase in larger quantities. Many of my projects are made up of yarn purchased by the skein and a yarn purchased by the pound or half-pound.

The foundation yarn and primary colorway for these projects is the Lola Bobble Box, specifically the Hippie Galaxy colorway. The first project was inspired by a project in Handwoven magazine. As a matter of fact, it is on the cover of the May/June 2018 issue. It is called the Travel Shawl by Deborah Jarchow and it is an amazing combination of cotton/acrylic in the warp and mohair for the weft. Handwoven is an amazing magazine and I highly recommend getting a subscription, there are projects for all types of looms and no matter what your abilities it can inspire and help you along the Weaving Way. I wanted to use the 20” Schacht Flip Loom for this project, so I narrowed the project from 3 individual 10” wide warps to one 20” wide warp and adjusted the amount of each color used for the striped warp.

Tools
20” loom
10 dent heddle
Fringe twister
100” warp with 200 ends
String measuring tool

Materials
One Lola Bobbel Box
One ball Extra Klasse by Zitron

Warping
Beginning at the center of the heddle will give you better control with your color placement.

Mark a center slot on your heddle, this comes in handy for every project!

Tie on and tie off each color section to the back apron bar, once you have started the center color you will be moving back and forth on either side of the center to add the next colors. Painting your heddle with color!

The center color (color 1) will straddle the center of the heddle. If you are direct warping, divide the number of ends by 2 and warp the slots only. Once you have the center 10 slots warped you can tie off and then tie on Color 2 and warp 5 slots on either side of the center section, and so on until you are all the way across the 20” heddle or to your desired width. See the following chart:

Notes for Happy Warping (I love being warped)

When you have finished warping your loom and have tied the warp at the peg end, DO NOT CUT the warp loops at the peg. Just slip the warp off the peg and proceed to winding the warp on the loom using your preferred separation materials. Once you have your warp wound on and you begin to thread your holes cut only one loop at a time before threading. This may take a few more minutes but the rewards will be well worth doing it this way! So, you are wondering why, as you have noticed the yarn is made up of four individual threads not plied together. While this is one of the things that makes this yarn so great for weaving, it can also cause a bit of a problem with your warping. If you cut all the warp ends at one time you run the risk of not pulling the correct threads together when you thread the holes resulting in a not well-behaved warp (yes, I have had this experience).

When you have finished threading the heddle, its time to tie onto the front with your preferred method. You will be using the tie on ends for your fringe, so if you are tying the ends directly to the front apron bar make sure you have about 5” in the tie on. Spread your warp with waste yarn, this is my preferred method as it makes it easier to control the threads when I am knotting for fringe especially if I am not doing a hemstitch.

However, for this project I did hemstitch and then created the twisted fringe. I liked how the mohair looked in the basic hemstitch design.

But first, we need to weave our wrap! This is a lightly beaten weft, so when you beat your weft pick you are doing it gently. It is more of a placing of the weft at the fell line.

When you begin your weaving I highly recommend that you create a string measuring tool for your work. You can also clip a measuring tape to the warp, but I find that this works better for me. I use a contrast, cut to the length I need, piece of crochet cotton. To measure for this project: leave a 4” tail and tie a knot, then measure 90” from the knot and cut. The knot and tail will be threaded in the first row of weaving, using a tapestry needle thread the tail into the waste yarn for a few inches to secure.

This little string will answer the question “How far have I woven and how far do I have to go?” Make sure that you have recorded the length of the string on your Project Page along with all the other information you will need in the future. Such as, your materials, your heddle dent and width of project.

When you have woven far enough that you have the apron bar wound forward so you can see how much warp you have left, leave enough for fringe and put in a few picks of waste yarn to secure the warp. If you hemstitched at the beginning you can do that now before you remove the warp, if you decide after removing your warp from the loom that you want to hemstitch you certainly can!

Remember to measure your woven fabric after removing from the loom, and record on your project page. I like to twist the fringe before the wet finishing. Once you have finished the fringe, and woven in any ends, you are ready to wet finish. For this wrap I did a tub soak using Eucalan, while it is in the water I give it a few squishes to help encourage the fibers to work together and then let it soak for about 30 minutes. Then I squeeze it and then roll it up flat in a towel or two and hang to dry, I usually put it over the shower curtain rod. Yes, you can dry it flat, but here in the Pacific Northwest it dries better hanging. I do move it around a few times to keep it from getting kinked. And, I get to interact with the fabric and smile.

The information in this post is a guideline for your wrap. Weaving is a personal and individual process. You can make it wider narrower, longer or shorter! Remember you will have to adjust the amount of yarn you have for the weft. If your warp is wider or longer you will need to purchase an additional ball of weft yarn.

This picture highlights the airy and light nature of the fabric created by using the Lola and mohair together.

I hope you enjoy working with this amazing yarn, and remember this is only the first stop on our Lola Bobbel Box journey.

Weave on,                          

Cynthia          


Products mentioned in this post: 

Accessing Online Events

Our online workshops and events are hosted through the Zoom app. The application can be downloaded on tablets, smartphones, or computers. Please be sure you have a stable, strong internet connection during the workshop. If you have used Zoom in other events, or to virtually visit with friends or family, then you probably know how to use the app!

The Day Before Class
A day before the event, you will be provided with login information. Take a moment to check to ensure that you have the most up-to-date version of Zoom on your devices. Did you complete any homework necessary? Gather your materials and make sure they are all in one spot, so you are ready when it's time to learn.

Please Note: Our system will send receipts and login information to the email address that you provide at the time of purchase. Some people use a different email for PayPal, etc. so please check the email address used at the time of purchase for the information needed to access events. If you have difficulties finding your receipt or other information, please reach out to us asap so that we can assist.


One Hour Before Class
Make sure that you have the most up to date version of the Zoom app. Not sure how to do that? Click HERE


15 Minutes Before Class
You will be able to join the event about 15 minutes before the beginning of the event. Be sure to have your materials kit, as well as paper, pen/pencil, and other notions you think you may need. 

Set yourself up in a quiet location, and if possible, wear headphones. Turn off any television, radio, or other source of sound.


When Class Begins
Each attendee will be "muted" when they enter the room. We encourage you to stay muted, and to utilize the chat room for questions. Our instructors have assistants that will relay questions during the event, and as needed, will call on students to unmute themselves to ask questions.

Classes are only offered live and will not be recorded.

Refunds/Cancelations
Attendees can cancel and get a refund for the workshop portion of a class up until the time sign-in information has been delivered for the workshop. The materials fee is not refundable

Something Isn't Working
Having troubles? Try leaving the event, and then join again. If that doesn't solve the issue, restart your device and rejoin the class. If you continue to experience issues, please call 206-747-7121, or email us hello@makersmercantile.com

The Essential Guide to Machine Knitting with the addiExpress Kingsize

Knitters! Crocheters! Crafters of all types who love yarn!

If you haven’t heard about the addiExpress Kingsize yet, meet the knitting machine that will keep you busy in quarantine. This machine just got a brand-new pattern book released digitally as a complete companion guide; with 30 patterns, extensive instructions on how to get started, special techniques, and even troubleshooting!

The Essential Guide to Machine Knitting with the addiExpress Kingsize” is a collaboration between our friends at skacel, and Hannah Mann (the designer behind Dear Ingénue on Ravelry).  

In this book you’ll learn about the machine, addi® (the manufacturer), details on fabric characteristics, how to set up your machine, and detailed photo step-by-step instructions for all included techniques, and of course 30 unique patterns. Some examples include finishing options, embellishments, on and off machine techniques, detailed yarn information, and even how to block your finished creations! It truly is an all-in-one guidebook, suitable for any skill level or ability!

We especially love the variety of patterns, which are arranged by level of difficulty and range from hats, to sweaters, and even home décor! Each pattern lists what types of skills are needed, materials, helpful hints, and a time estimate for how long each project may take to complete. Designed to lead you from zero experience, to knitting machine professional.

Ready to make the most of machine knitting this holiday season?

Available on our website as a digital download!

PLUS, the addiExpress Kingsize machine just came back in stock, and is ON SALE!

Wondering why they call it the “Express?” Because it’s capable of knitting hats, scarves, and more in under an hour! Able to make tubes, flat panels, increase, and decrease, the type of projects possible are only limited by your imagination.

We can’t say enough good things about this new book, we’re sure it will become an essential tool for beginners and experts, alike!

Treat yourself or pick up a copy for a crafty friend or loved one!

Digital copy only, printed copies coming soon!

Last Minute Holiday Gifts

The holidays are just around the corner, and we feel time ticking by as we inch towards the moment handmade gifts need to be sent on the journey to the lucky recipient. 

Need some ideas about what to make or buy for your deserving friends and family? The Makers' team has compiled some ideas here of gifts to make and give.


Monthly Subscriptions

Give the gift of creativity all year long! Choose from our three subscription box offerings: Sock of the Month, Hat of the Month, or our kids box, the Craft Corner. Each priced at just $27 a month, all boxes come with instructions, materials, and gifts to keep the crafter creating. 

Our subscription programs run monthly, and you can cancel any time.


Embroidered Llama

Wayyyyy too cute. This little embroidered llama sends love across the miles. Make it and send it along with other goodies to one of your friends. 


Big Lace Shawl

Big stitches and big yarn means a quick knit. As an added value, we are including an addi US 10.75 fixed circular 47" long needle, and a printed copy of the pattern to make this wonderfully huge big lace shawl. Running out of time? You can simply gift this HUGE cake of Donegal tweed, the pattern, and needle to the knitter in your life.


Twined Knitted Mittens

Twined knitting is a technique that involves the wrapping of yarns around each other after every stitch. It requires yarns that are twisted opposite each other. In this kit, you'll find "S" twist and "Z" twist yarns specifically created for this purpose. Make these fun mittens as a special gift and learn a new technique at the same time!

(or, give the kit as a gift and let that special person in your life get to experience the magic of twined knitting!)

Also in the kit, you'll receive a download code for the Kerstin mitten pattern (a $ 7 value!) Check out the project page on Ravelry HERE.


Victorian Knit-Along Scarf

From the mind of Franklin Habit comes this beautiful lace scarf. Using just one hank of Infinito, a bevy of lace stitches harmonize as the yarn color shifts slowly from light to dark. 

Purchase one hank of Infinito now through 12/1, and we will include a copy of the pattern as our gift to you (a $5.00 value).

In addition, you can review the tutorial videos from our KAL HERE.


Aumuller Korbwaren Sewing Boxes

These heirloom-quality sewing boxes from Aumuller Korbwaren are made in Germany of 100% Beech Wood and finished with a clear, hard-wearing varnish.

Perfect for sewers, kntiters, crocheters, and crafters of all kinds. 


Make your own Woolbuddy!

Fun as a gift to make and then give (or a great all-inclusive kit to give to a lucky recipient) the Woolbuddy kits offer a collection of adorable animals that are just waiting to be crafted. Click the button below to see the options.


FiberStories: Simpliworsted

Aside from the variety of color options, Simpliworsted by HiKoo® is most loved for its brilliant fiber content that makes it machine washable. It is ideal for items for children, as well as blankets or other projects that need to be washed more regularly. The bit of nylon helps this yarn hold its shape, and the Merino and acrylic give it fantastic stitch definition. 

Make a colorful striped blanket, crochet gorgeous granny squares, or create a textural cabled masterpiece that can be sent off to a worthy recipient without any worry about how they might care for the item.

Want more inspiration? On our website you'll see Simpliworsted colors in the same area as Simpliworsted Multi, Marled, and Metallic, but Simpliworsted Spray is listed separately.


  • 55% Merino, 28% Acrylic, 17% Nylon
  • 140 yards per 100 gram hank
  • Approximately 4 stitches per inch on US 10 (6.00 mm) needles
  • Recommended size J (6.00 mm) hook
  • Aran Weight
  • Winding required
  • Machine wash, tumble dry low
  • Made in Taiwan

Pattern Inspiration

FiberStories: Lifestyle

Luxurious, 100% extrafine merino wool. What could be better?! This super soft yarn is prepared in so many color options that you are certain to find one (or three!) that strike your fancyLifestyle by Zitron is presented in pre-wound 50 gram balls. Want more yardage and some color gradients? We encourage you to consider Unisono. It is essentially the same yarn as Lifestyle, but is prepared in 100 gram hanks and has more multi-color choices. 

Want a multi-colored yarn to go with Lifestyle? You are in luck! Ambiente by Schoppel-Wolle is an idential yarn base, but it has been space dyed so that when it is knitted, a pattern that resembles Fair-Isle appears!

  • 100% Superwash Merino 
  • 170 yards per 50 gram ball
  • 6.5 sts = 1 inch on US 2 - 4 (2.75 - 3.50 mm) needles
  • Recommended crochet hook: US D (3.25 mm)
  • Fingering Weight
  • Winding not needed
  • Hand wash cold, lay flat
  • Made in Germany

Pattern Inspiration

©Dela Hausmann

© XRX, Inc.

©Atelier Zitron