The answer is, so many amazing things, but today we are going to focus on how much weaving you can complete with a Bobbel Box of yarn.
The Lola yarn is a weaver’s happy place, buying yarn to use on your loom or looms (as in my case) is a little different in quantity. Buying yarn for your looms can be done by the pound! Yes, that sounds a little crazy, but to make sure you have the materials you need to complete large and/or multiple projects, buying larger quantities at a time can speed you on the way of completed projects. The Lola Box is a little over a pound of yarn (approximately 18 oz), and 2,050 yards for over a mile of yarn!
You can use your yarn stash and purchase new skeins, cakes, and balls of yarn of all types to use on your loom in conjunction with yarn you will purchase in larger quantities. Many of my projects are made up of yarn purchased by the skein and a yarn purchased by the pound or half-pound.
The foundation yarn and primary colorway for these projects is the Lola Bobble Box, specifically the Hippie Galaxy colorway. The first project was inspired by a project in Handwoven magazine. As a matter of fact, it is on the cover of the May/June 2018 issue. It is called the Travel Shawl by Deborah Jarchow and it is an amazing combination of cotton/acrylic in the warp and mohair for the weft. Handwoven is an amazing magazine and I highly recommend getting a subscription, there are projects for all types of looms and no matter what your abilities it can inspire and help you along the Weaving Way. I wanted to use the 20” Schacht Flip Loom for this project, so I narrowed the project from 3 individual 10” wide warps to one 20” wide warp and adjusted the amount of each color used for the striped warp.
10 dent heddle
100” warp with 200 ends
String measuring tool
One Lola Bobbel Box
One ball Extra Klasse by Zitron
Beginning at the center of the heddle will give you better control with your color placement.
Mark a center slot on your heddle, this comes in handy for every project!
Tie on and tie off each color section to the back apron bar, once you have started the center color you will be moving back and forth on either side of the center to add the next colors. Painting your heddle with color!
The center color (color 1) will straddle the center of the heddle. If you are direct warping, divide the number of ends by 2 and warp the slots only. Once you have the center 10 slots warped you can tie off and then tie on Color 2 and warp 5 slots on either side of the center section, and so on until you are all the way across the 20” heddle or to your desired width. See the following chart:
Notes for Happy Warping (I love being warped)
When you have finished warping your loom and have tied the warp at the peg end, DO NOT CUT the warp loops at the peg. Just slip the warp off the peg and proceed to winding the warp on the loom using your preferred separation materials. Once you have your warp wound on and you begin to thread your holes cut only one loop at a time before threading. This may take a few more minutes but the rewards will be well worth doing it this way! So, you are wondering why, as you have noticed the yarn is made up of four individual threads not plied together. While this is one of the things that makes this yarn so great for weaving, it can also cause a bit of a problem with your warping. If you cut all the warp ends at one time you run the risk of not pulling the correct threads together when you thread the holes resulting in a not well-behaved warp (yes, I have had this experience).
When you have finished threading the heddle, its time to tie onto the front with your preferred method. You will be using the tie on ends for your fringe, so if you are tying the ends directly to the front apron bar make sure you have about 5” in the tie on. Spread your warp with waste yarn, this is my preferred method as it makes it easier to control the threads when I am knotting for fringe especially if I am not doing a hemstitch.
However, for this project I did hemstitch and then created the twisted fringe. I liked how the mohair looked in the basic hemstitch design.
But first, we need to weave our wrap! This is a lightly beaten weft, so when you beat your weft pick you are doing it gently. It is more of a placing of the weft at the fell line.
When you begin your weaving I highly recommend that you create a string measuring tool for your work. You can also clip a measuring tape to the warp, but I find that this works better for me. I use a contrast, cut to the length I need, piece of crochet cotton. To measure for this project: leave a 4” tail and tie a knot, then measure 90” from the knot and cut. The knot and tail will be threaded in the first row of weaving, using a tapestry needle thread the tail into the waste yarn for a few inches to secure.
This little string will answer the question “How far have I woven and how far do I have to go?” Make sure that you have recorded the length of the string on your Project Page along with all the other information you will need in the future. Such as, your materials, your heddle dent and width of project.
When you have woven far enough that you have the apron bar wound forward so you can see how much warp you have left, leave enough for fringe and put in a few picks of waste yarn to secure the warp. If you hemstitched at the beginning you can do that now before you remove the warp, if you decide after removing your warp from the loom that you want to hemstitch you certainly can!
Remember to measure your woven fabric after removing from the loom, and record on your project page. I like to twist the fringe before the wet finishing. Once you have finished the fringe, and woven in any ends, you are ready to wet finish. For this wrap I did a tub soak using Eucalan, while it is in the water I give it a few squishes to help encourage the fibers to work together and then let it soak for about 30 minutes. Then I squeeze it and then roll it up flat in a towel or two and hang to dry, I usually put it over the shower curtain rod. Yes, you can dry it flat, but here in the Pacific Northwest it dries better hanging. I do move it around a few times to keep it from getting kinked. And, I get to interact with the fabric and smile.
The information in this post is a guideline for your wrap. Weaving is a personal and individual process. You can make it wider narrower, longer or shorter! Remember you will have to adjust the amount of yarn you have for the weft. If your warp is wider or longer you will need to purchase an additional ball of weft yarn.
This picture highlights the airy and light nature of the fabric created by using the Lola and mohair together.
I hope you enjoy working with this amazing yarn, and remember this is only the first stop on our Lola Bobbel Box journey.