Winter Roses KAL

We are excited about the upcoming knitalong with skacel and Hannah Mann of Dear Ingénue! Running the entire month of November, join your fiber friends in knitting the Winter Roses pullover!

For a laid-back sweatshirt feel with a fun tri-color motif, this ultra-cozy sweater is knit in the round—from the top-down—so you can try it on as you go! The circular yoke and body are embellished with bands of bold colorwork and textural garter stitch ridges. 

Knit in HiKoo® Simplinatural—a smooth, fluffy, aran-weight yarn, featuring a sumptuous blend of baby alpaca, fine merino wool, and mulberry silk.

The free pattern offers two neck variations, as well as a full-length or cropped-length body. Charted and written instructions are available for the colorwork.

Winter Roses is available in 5 different sizes with two neck and two length options (cowl neck or crew neck & full length or crop length).

Want help choosing colors? Keep scrolling to see some great options selected by the designer!

Save 15% off Simplinatural
now through 10/31/21

Purchase 5 or more hanks of Simplinatural, and we will send the Winter Roses Notions Bag as
our gift to you!


Offer good through 10/31/21

  • 40% Alpaca, 40% Merino Wool, 20% Mulberry Silk
  • 183 yards per 100 gram hank
  • 4 - 4.5 sts/ in on US 8 - 9 (5.00 - 5.50 mm) needles
  • Size I (5.50 mm) hook
  • Aran weight
  • Hand wash cold, lay flat
  • Made in Peru

Sizes
1 (XS-S) - 2 (M-L) - 3 (XL-2XL) - 4 (3XL-4XL) - 5 (5XL)

IN INCHES
Bust Circumference: 32 (40, 48, 56, 60)“
Cropped Underarm to Hem: 8”
Full-Length Underarm to Hem: 12.75 (13, 13, 13.5, 14)”

IN CENTIMETERS
Bust Circumference: 81.5 (101.5, 112, 142, 152.5)cm
Cropped Underarm to Hem: 20.5cm
Full-Length Underarm to Hem: 32.5 (33, 33, 34.5, 35.5)“

Model shown is a 40” (101.5cm) bust wearing size 2 (M-L)

Color Combinations

yarn requirements


COWL-neck / FULL-length

SIZES1 (XS-S)2 (M-L)3 (XL-2XL)4 (3-4XL)5 (5XL)
MC4 hanks4 hanks5 hanks6 hanks7 hanks
CC12 hanks2 hanks3 hanks3 hanks4 hanks
CC21 hank1 hank2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks
Total7 hanks7 hanks9 hanks10 hanks12 hanks

COWL-neck / CROPPED-length

SIZES1 (XS-S)2 (M-L)3 (XL-2XL)4 (3-4XL)5 (5XL)
MC3 hanks4 hanks5 hanks6 hanks7 hanks
CC11 hank2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks
CC21 hank1 hank1 hank1 hank2 hanks
Total5 hanks7 hanks8 hanks9 hanks11 hanks

CREW-neck / FULL-length

SIZES1 (XS-S)2 (M-L)3 (XL-2XL)4 (3-4XL)5 (5XL)
MC4 hanks4 hanks5 hanks6 hanks7 hanks
CC11 hank2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks3 hanks
CC21 hank1 hank1 hank1 hank2 hanks
Total6 hanks7 hanks8 hanks9 hanks12 hanks

CREW-neck / CROPPED-length

SIZES1 (XS-S)2 (M-L)3 (XL-2XL)4 (3-4XL)5 (5XL)
MC3 hanks4 hanks5 hanks6 hanks6 hanks
CC11 hank2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks2 hanks
CC21 hank1 hank1 hank1 hank2 hanks
Total5 hanks6 hanks7 hanks9 hanks10 hanks

Gauge: 20 sts & 24 rows = 4” 10cm in pattern

Smaller Needles: 16” (40cm) and 32” (80cm) US 8 (5mm) skacel by addi® circular needles, and DPNs for sleeves if not using the Magic Loop Method

Larger Needles: 32” (80cm) US 9 (5.5mm) skacel by addi® circular needles, and DPNs for sleeves if not using the Magic Loop Method

Notions: Stitch marker, Tapestry needle, Scissors

Yikes Stripes

Still exploring how many wraps can be made out of one  Hippie Galazie Weaving Works Kit, the adventure continues with the FIFTH wrap! 

Read about the previous projects:

Wrap #1
Wrap #2
Wrap #3
Wrap #4

Hello and here we are again. Another wrap? Although it really does make a beautiful wrap, this time I thought we needed another option. How about some stripes for your table?

Once again, this fabric was made using the Hippie Galaxie magic box of yarn. This is the fifth piece from the box. When I started warping my loom there was a loose plan on the size of the stripes. This will vary depending on how much yarn you have left in each color. Planning out the stripes on graph paper will help, you know how many ends your heddle will hold and how many colors you can use. This piece was woven on my Ashford RH 16” loom. The total number of ends are 159 using a 10 dent heddle on this loom. I highly recommend that you note how many ends each of your heddles will hold. This will help you in your design process.

Remember to add the color Black (8/2 cotton doubled) to the number of ends you are calculating.

Warping the Loom:

Warp Length 90”

Width on Loom: approximately 15 1/4” in a 10 dent heddle with a total of 156 ends

This photo shows the final stripe sequence.

The width of the color stripes is controlled by the amount of yarn I had left. There was a lot of scribbling and warping and unwarping before I was happy with the stripe sequence. At times when I am trying to design a pattern, the loom is my design board. Maybe that sounds like more work than designing on paper, but it helps my process to use the materials that will create the final fabric.

There are several ways to go about putting the stripes on the loom. You can start at the center and design out from there or begin on the right or left edge. Remember this is your project and my ideas are just that, ideas and there is no right or wrong. Your thoughts and ideas may lead you in a completely different direction. Just remember to keep your notes, as these will help inspire you on future adventures.

Tying on your Warp:

For this piece I wanted fringe at each end. When I had the heddle threaded and ready to tie on, I used the simple tying on to the apron bar method. That gave me the option of using the fringe or not. I did hemstitch after spreading the warp. This would give me the option of twisted fringe or just trimming the ends, leaving 1 ½” length of straight fringe on each end.

You may not want long fringe on a table runner, since that can lead to messy accidents if the fringe catches on something or someone or possibly a curious and fun-loving cat or dog.

Another optional finishing technique would be turning under the end twice and hemming either by hand or machine. You could also use a contrast fabric to finish the end and turn under one time and stitch.

Hemstitching:

Hemstitching the ends can be done while the piece is on the loom or after you have removed the piece from the loom.

The picture above shows hemstitching done with a single thread of 8/2 cotton. The next picture shows the hemstitching done with 8/2 cotton doubled.

Weaving the Stripes:

 The entire piece is woven with black 8/2 cotton doubled.

Measuring and Finishing:

On the loom this piece is 90” x 15 1/4”

Off the loom and after wet finish the piece measures 70 ½” x 14 ½” with an additional fringe length of 5”

The table in the photo, when opened completely measures 60”.

Enjoy using your beautiful stripes! And……weave on and on…….

Coming soon…….Galaxie Scratch Board Wrap, project number six.


Resources

2021 Puget Sound LYS Tour

Welcome to the 2021 Puget Sound LYS Tour! This year, we are excited to offer 10 days of fiber fun PLUS the option to visit in person or online!


In Person

18437 E. Valley Hwy #102, Kent, WA 98032

August 13 - 22, 2021

10:00 AM - 6:00 PM

Bring your passport into the shop and get it stamped, and be sure to enter the daily drawing. 


Virtual Visits

Visit our website any time during the tour for purchases and be sure to enter the Grand Prize drawing! 


Finishers

A hearty congratulations to everyone who visited all 20 shops during the tour! It is a fantastic feat that we are certain will leave you inspired. Here are the crafty folks who made Makers' Mercantile stop #20:


2021 Tour Swag

2021 Tour Patterns

Visit the shop in person or make a purchase online during the tour and you will receive download codes for the knit and crochet patterns we have created for the tour.

Alternatively, during the tour, you will also have the option to purchase the patterns for $10 each.


Mitered Square Tunic

by Melissa Leapman

Most sizes of the Mitered Square Tunic by Melissa Leapman take just two cakes of Concentric Cotton by HiKoo®. It begins at the bottom and is worked in a few simple pieces. Some quick finishing around the neck and the addition of sleeves and voila! You've created a lovely, gradient crocheted tunic you
can be proud of.

Want to make the piece shorter? Simply begin the neck shaping sooner... it's as easy as that.
 
This pattern is our gift to our customers now through
August 22, 2021.

Save 10% off Concentric Cotton now through 8/22/21


Choose two colors of CoBaSi by HiKoo and knit up a pair of Crab Walk Socks! Designed by Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog, these ankle high beauties feature patterning that keep the knitting interesting.
This pattern is our gift to our customers now through
August 22, 2021.

Save 10% off CoBaSi now through 8/22/21

Shipping Updates

Due to increases in the cost of shipping, we will be revising our shipping policy effective August 1, 2021, as follows:

  • Free shipping on all orders of $75.00 or more within the contiguous US.
  • Orders under $75.00 being shipped in the contiguous US will be charged a flat rate of $5.00. We will choose the most economical way to ship your order. This may be UPS, USPS, or FedEx.
  • Orders of any amount shipping to Hawaii, Alaska, and other US territories, will be shipped for a flat fee of $7.00. This may be UPS, USPS or FedEx.
  • Expedited shipping may be requested for $10.00
  • International orders will be charged based on product weight, size, and the country being shipped to.
  • Subscription boxes will ship at the rate specified at the time of sign-up.

If you have any questions about this change, please contact us at hello@makersmercantile.com and we will be happy to answer your questions.

Color and Shadow

When this journey began, the plan was for three wraps. You can read the first post HERE, and the second post HERE, and the third one HERE. When these wraps were complete, the box was not empty, so the journey continues.

When you sit down to your loom, you are the artist the dressed loom is the canvas and the weft yarn you choose is your paint. There are so many different types of materials and with so many design weav-abilities and combinations, it can be overwhelming. This project let me focus on creating many different patterns with the same materials.

You can get the Hippie Galazie Weaving Works Kit HERE.

A new warp:
Single ends of Maurice Brassard 8/2 cotton in black
12 dent heddle
80” warp
Width in heddle 15”

Weft:
8/2 doubled
Lola Bobble Box in Hippie Galazie all colors

Additional texture using black mohair (Zitron Extra Klasse) wound with one strand of 8/2 cotton on an additional shuttle.

This photo shows the beginning textural section. Using a measuring string pattern with every 10” marked helped me keep track of my spacing.

This project is using the colors in the Bobbel Box that are left from the first three projects. This example is to give you an idea for using the remaining yarn. The amount of yarn that you will have left greatly depends on the way that you weave and the width and length of the warps that you have already put on your loom.

This is just off the loom before wet finished to give you an idea of the color placement and texture sections. As you can see I was a little more generous with my colors at the beginning of the warp (the first colors are the yellow/orange group).

When I started weaving there was really no color pattern, also, I had more yarn in some colors. As I was winding shuttles I separated them into groups, I saw a fire section, rainbow section, an ocean and ocean sun section. One color group leads into another divided by textural shadows. This idea is only a place to start!

This project uses a technique called hatching. There are a number of different ways to create hatching. This technique is created with at least two colors and are overlapped or butted up against each other in the shed. If they are to butt up against each other both colors are used in the same shed. If they are to overlap only one color is used in the shed at a time. In this warp the colors are overlapped, I wanted a constant contrast of color and shadow, so the black weft always begins on the right and the color weft on the left in the warp.

When you are using this technique the shuttle will come up out of the shed in the spot you want the color to end. Beat the pick in place and change sheds, then send the shuttle back to the same side of the warp it came from.

For Example: the shuttle with the color will come from the left side of the warp and come up out of the warp at the spot you have decided upon. Beat the interrupted pick into place and change sheds. Send the shuttle back through the new shed to the same side (the left) of the warp, making sure to catch the warp thread closest to the thread where your shuttle came out of the warp. Beat the pick into place and change sheds. Now send the shuttle with the black thread from the right side of the warp and overlap the color, bring the shuttle up out of the warp. Beat into place and change sheds. Insert the shuttle into the new shed, again making sure to catch the warp thread, and out to the same side of the warp (right).

This project was inspired by the Sunset Shawl by Judith Shanagold

References for Hatching:

Handwoven Loom Theory rigid-heddle scarf collection (ebook) Sunset Shawl by Judith Shanagold

Tapestry Weaving by Kirsten Glasbrook

When weaving the black intermingled with color I used the 8/2 cotton and mohair wound together. In the black sections there are wide stripes alternating with 8/2 cotton wound double on a shuttle and the shuttle with the 8/2 cotton and mohair.

This wrap was designed as I sat down to weave, but next time I may do a little planning with colored pencils on graph paper to see other ways to apply the techniques of interrupted weaving.

Finishing the Wrap:

My vision for the wrap was a loose fitting somewhat poncho style wrap. Since the warp was lashed onto the front with no extra warp for fringe, I left enough warp at the end to use for twisted fringe. To add another pop of color I cut pieces of the Bobble Box yarn to add to the fringe. To make this easier, I will secure the warp with knots all the way across and then add the color to each section. You will need to cut the yarn double the length of the existing fringe, thread it onto a tapestry needle and thread it up and then down through the knot before twisting the fringe.

Next, I finished the end without fringe by zigzagging with my machine and then finishing the edge with silk ribbon.

Next step is to place the ribbon end overlapping the edge of the wrap at the fringe end as seen in the above photo. This will become the wrong side.

The photo above shows the right side of the wrap.

And that is the story, but is it the end of the journey……?

Stay tuned for more weaving adventure.

Cynthia


Upcoming online

Weaving Workshops

Stop Number Three

Hello again weavers,

Just a little note to let you know we are still adventuring along on the More than a Mile-long Hippie Galaxie path. In other words, a very colorful journey. You can read the first post HERE, and the second post HERE. I hope you enjoy this new project, it was a lot of fun to make!            

When I was originally thinking about the idea of using color blocking for this wrap the idea was huge! I envisioned a large wall hanging of Mondrian type color sections divided by black lines of various sizes. So, I needed to pare it down to a doable size for a Rigid Heddle loom idea. Changes were made and I sliced the middle out of the original idea and came up with Not Quite Mondrian. When you look at it perhaps you can see the rest of the original plan.

To simplify the pattern, I left out the vertical solid black lines that were part of my original vision.

The next photo shows my final design decision. Get out those colored pencils! Yes, it is in my notebook - you know how much I love keeping records! You can download the free Weaving Project Page HERE.

The color blocking is made possible by a tapestry technique called single weft interlock. There are a number of different ways to execute this technique, I have also seen it referred to as interlocking weft and discontinuous weft. This also means that you can have more than 2 colors to a pick to create blocks of color. That’s where the simplification came in for this idea, I reduced the number of sections and so reduced the number of colors that needed to interlock with each other in a single row. If I had left the vertical black lines in the design, there would have been three or four colors to each pick. That being said, I encourage you to  experiment with variations of this technique.

Weft interlock is really a family of techniques.  Each technique using 2 or more colors that come together either in one shed or a combination of sheds. Each throw is not a full pick of the weft thread, they are interrupted either by another thread or by stopping within the warp itself and venturing off into a new direction.

For this design we are interrupting the pick in the approximate center of the warp using one color from the right and a second color from the left. Both colors will come up out of the warp in the same spot: 


The warp is then beat into place. Change sheds, interlock the two colors... 


...and then go back through the new shed to each respective side of the warp. Beat the pick into place and you have completed 2 picks of 2 colors each.

This technique also creates a definite right and wrong side to the fabric. I like both sides, one has more texture the other is smoother after the wet finishing process. The top side (the top of the cloth on your loom) is referred to as the wrong side.

The next two photos are taken after the wet finish process. The first is the top or wrong side of the work, the second is the reverse side. You can see the textural difference. Since this project became a closed loop scarf, you will see both sides. But my chosen side is the one with more texture and that is the side with the fringe.

Scarf Specifications

This scarf was woven using a 12-dent heddle on a rigid heddle loom with a width of 15”. The warp is 8/2 cotton used as a single thread. The warp length is approximately 100”.

To keep track of my sections I used a measuring string. This time I measured and divided the length into 10” sections and marked them with a black permanent ink pen. Your measuring string is now a pattern string. I keep mine in a marked plastic bag, so I do not have to remake it for every project. Make sure that you write down the length of your string and the number of sections so you don’t forget once it begins to be wound into your warp!

The picture below shows the string pattern circled in green.

When winding the color shuttles, you will need two at a time. After securing the first color to the shuttle, begin winding onto the shuttle counting every time you make one full rotation around the shuttle. For this color plan I counted to 20 and cut my yarn. This shuttle is loaded and ready to weave. Move onto the second color and wind the same way. This plan allowed me to have less waste on the shuttle and fewer smaller pieces of yarn, since you are using the shuttle until it is empty. You will also need to wind a shuttle with the 8/2 cotton doubled to use in between the color blocks. Depending on the way that you weave, you may want to add more yarn to your shuttles. Also, you may want to change the size of the black stripes that divide the color blocks and that will affect the amount of color. The 10” sections are just a guide to spread the colors more evenly throughout the scarf.

Begin weaving with a waste yarn to spread the warp and use waste yarn at the end of the warp.

Remember, this is only an idea! A place to start……the loom is your canvas, your thread is your palette, you are the artist.

Weave on……..

Finishing

When you are removing your warp from the loom make sure to keep your waste yarn in place. This will make it easier to complete your fringe. This scarf is finished as a continuous loop held in place by the knots at the edges of the warp.

This is just an option, personally I like a scarf that does not have ends to slip off my shoulders. So, it became an oversized, double wrap cowl. You could finish this as a straight scarf with fringe on both ends and add beads, or not, and it would be amazing!

IS THIS THE END OF THE MILE??? A resounding NO!!!

When we started this journey there were plans for 3 scarves, but since the box still has yarn in it, there is no stopping us now!

Stay tuned for a little lagniappe for your loom…….

References for this post:

www.ashford.co.nz/ashford-club (Stained Glass on the Rigid Heddle Loom)

The Weaver’s Journal Summer 1987 (Tapestry Tips)

Weave*Knit*Wear by Judith Shangold


addiExpress Q & A

addiExpress experts Hannah Mann and Karin Skacel joined some of our customers for an informal, online Q & A session. We had a number of questions submitted prior to the event, and they were able to offer insight and to those who joined us.

Did you miss the event? Well, you are in luck, because we were able to record the session. Watch the recording below:

Products mentioned in this video:




Insert Image

Stairway to the Hippie Galaxy (and beyond)!

Welcome back to the Hippie Galaxy! This is our second stop on the mile-long Bobbel Boxx journey.

Click HERE for the first blog post on this topic.

I am sure that everyone has been asking the question, “Does my wrap that I am weaving on my loom really have to be a straight-edged rectangle?” Even if you have not been asking that question, bet you are thinking about it now! We can take that straight edge and give it an angle. So, instead of a squared off rectangle (parallelogram) you will be pushing those short sides forward into a parallelogram with angled ends. Parallelogram definition: a four-sided plane rectilinear figure with opposite sides parallel. Definition from the online Oxford Languages site. This angle can be a sharp point, a gradual point, a stair step angle, etc., etc., etc. What you are weaving is 2 triangles with a rectangle in the middle.

Here are the specifications for this Hippie Wrap:

Warp and Weft are Lola yarn

Warp is 90” long and width is 15” on a 10 dent heddle

To use all the colors in the warp I divided the number of ends by the number of colors. That means, for this width (150 ends) you come up with an odd number, so you can choose to do 16 with a few less ends of the last color. Or you can add a few extra slots to several of the colors as you warp.  This is just a suggestion, based on using the colors as evenly as possible. This gives us the full range of colors available for all the wraps you are weaving. Remember, if you have a wider loom you will want to measure and center your warp in the heddle. After you have direct warped your loom, once again do NOT cut the loops at the warping peg. Just tie the warp and slip off the peg and wind on to your loom. When you are ready to thread the holes, cut one loop at a time keeping the threads separate in your hand so you have a clean warp. This is due to the fact that the yarn is not plied but you 4 separate threads acting as one yarn. This is amazing as you can see below, but you need to be a little more careful as you are threading the holes to keep the correct 4 threads together. This applies to all yarn that is not plied, such as Concentric Cotton, and Concentric Alpaca.

This wrap is a plain weave, but not so plain when you have the colors you are working with in this yarn.

This is the magic of plain weave.

When you have wound on, threaded the holes and are ready to tie on to the front apron bar, make sure when you are tying on you are using enough length so it can be used as fringe. If you use an alternate way of tying on, make sure you plan for the fringe.

Next, we need to wind our shuttle. I used only one shuttle in the project. After sitting and staring at the warp on the loom, I realized I need a plan to continue to use the colors as evenly as possible. So, counting my shuttle wraps was the answer. It may seem tedious, but it really does go fast once you get in the groove. After securing the first color to the shuttle, begin winding onto the shuttle counting every time you make one full rotation around the shuttle. For this color plan I counted to 20 and cut my yarn. This shuttle is loaded and ready to weave.

Now we need to spread our warp to get ready to weave, in the picture I used double waste yarn picks to get the warp where I needed it to be so the weaving could begin. This also stabilized the warp to start the angled weaving section.

In the picture you see strips of cardboard. I used an alternate means of tying on my warp, so the cardboard strips are part of spreading the warp to give me enough length to create fringe.

Now, here we go! I promised stair steps, and as you can see in the picture, I used the color stripes to set the width of each step. Starting my weft yarn on the right the first pick is only about 14 ends wide (your shuttle will come up out of your warp), gently beat, change sheds and send your shuttle back to the right side, gently beat and change sheds. Repeat this process with the same number of warp threads, until you have 4 rows ending again at the right side of the warp. Continue weaving each section, weaving a longer and longer row until you reach the other edge and can begin weaving full rows.

When you are weaving this angle, you will need to make sure that you are weaving a straight line perpendicular to the edge of your warp with each pick. A ruler or piece of cardboard will help you, or you can just eyeball it as you beat the weft. A soft beat is important, at this time it is very easy to change the angle of your pick. Weaving 4 rows per section will give you the stair steps, if you weave only 2 rows per section you will have a gradual angle.

The following example woven with Concentric Cotton has smoother angle and has only 2 passes with the shuttle per section. To create a sharper angle weave fewer warp ends with each pass, a softer angle weave more warp ends with each pass until you reach the other side.

Once you have completed the angled section, measure the length from the beginning of the weft to the first complete row and record this on your project page. This will help you create a matching angle once you get to the other end of your project. Of course, both ends of your scarf really don’t have to be the same.

As you continue weaving you will soon run out of weft yarn on your shuttle. Pick your next color, on my scarf I used the colors in order (they are numbered on the ball band). With this length of warp you will not have enough room to use all the colors evenly. My color bands are smaller at the end, or you can leave out a color or two if you don’t have the room. But when you begin weaving your angle try and make sure you have enough weft yarn to complete it. Load your shuttle the same way you did the first color and continue weaving until you can see the end of your warp.

When you are coming to the end of your warp, make sure you have enough room to complete your angle and fringe.

When you are ready to create the final angle of your parallelogram, you will need to shorten your weft picks starting from the left edge of your warp. When you began your scarf, you were adding warp ends. When you are beginning your final angle, you will be reducing the number of warp ends you weave until you have finished your last section.

Once you have finished your fantastic weaving, you can put in a few rows of waste yarn in the full width of the warp, just to hold all the ends together.

To set up for the fringe I do a simple overhand knot with approximately 4 ends per knot, depending on how many ends you have in each section this will vary.

Once I have twisted the fringe and woven in all the ends, I put the scarf in a lingerie bag and put it in the washer with my regular laundry in cold water wash. I remove the scarf from the bag and put it in the dryer for just a few minutes and then hang to finish drying.

Wear your amazing work of art and enjoy……..and yes, there is still yarn left to continue the journey.

Stay tuned for Not Quite Mondrian, coming soon.

Weave on…and on…..and on………..

Weave on,                          

Cynthia


About the Author:

My life in fiber arts has been a journey leading me through the forests of thread and yarn and across the plains of fabric to finally find my home in the magic of the loom. Being immersed in the crafts of sewing, knitting, crocheting, dyeing, and many things in between, has enabled me to understand many ways of approaching techniques and design in weaving and in teaching.

It’s All Right Moebius MKAL with Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog

Let's start the new year with a new, engaging (and fun!) project. Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog has partnered with us to bring you the It's All Right Möbius MKAL (mystery knit-along). 

This fun one-sided shape begins with an adventurous cast on, and because there is only one side, Ellen was clever with the name of the project. 

As we knit together, we will discover that after the cast on, and first round, the knitting is a simple progression of 10-stitch repeats and l - o - n - g rounds. Of course, we will host a forum on Ravelry, and Ellen has created a series of videos to assist from cast on to bind off!

The finished piece? Well, we can't show you exactly what it looks like, or it wouldn't be a mystery... but we promise it's a gorgeous study in geometry that you'll be proud to wear or gift.  

gather your supplies

  • 2 hanks Silbermond by Zitron (main color)
  • 1 ball Herbstwind by Zitron (accent color)
  • US size 6 (4.0 mm), or size necessary to obtain gauge, 60-inch long addi® Rocket 2 [Squared] circular needle
  • stitch marker
January 8, 2021 - Week 1 clue revealed

January 15, 2021 - Week 2 clue revealed

January 22, 2021 - Week 3 clue revealed

January 29, 2021 - Week 4 clue revealed

Each week on Friday, by 9am Pacific, we will update the pattern file on Ravelry, and we will send a notification to you that you can download the next set of instructions. Work at your own pace (remember, knitting is supposed to be fun!) and engage with your fellow makers in the Ravelry group HERE.


Moebius Project Bag

Need a fun way to remember how to do the Moebius cast on? Look no further than our exclusive instruction bag. Printed, cut, and sewn in our Kent, WA shop, this drawstring bag features detailed instructions on how to do this ingenius cast on. If you are more of a visual learner, simply scan the QR code and Ellen Thomas of The Chilly Dog will show you how it's done in her fantastic video.

Measures approximately 13.5 x 14.5 inches


Yarn & Needles

Zitron Silbermond

Silbermond by Zitron
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
330 m/100 g hank

(2 hanks - main color)


Herbstwind by Zitron
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
165 m/50 g ball

(1 ball - accent color)


addi© Turbo fixed circular needle
100% Tasmanian Extrafine Merino
165 m/50 g ball

(1 ball - accent color)


Join the Makers’ Mercantile Ravelry Group HERE

Share your project photos with fellow makers!

#ItsAllRightMKAL    #MakersMercantile    #TheChillyDog

Accessing Online Events

Our online workshops and events are hosted through the Zoom app. The application can be downloaded on tablets, smartphones, or computers. Please be sure you have a stable, strong internet connection during the workshop. If you have used Zoom in other events, or to virtually visit with friends or family, then you probably know how to use the app!

The Day Before Class
A day before the event, you will be provided with login information. Take a moment to check to ensure that you have the most up-to-date version of Zoom on your devices. Did you complete any homework necessary? Gather your materials and make sure they are all in one spot, so you are ready when it's time to learn.

Please Note: Our system will send receipts and login information to the email address that you provide at the time of purchase. Some people use a different email for PayPal, etc. so please check the email address used at the time of purchase for the information needed to access events. If you have difficulties finding your receipt or other information, please reach out to us asap so that we can assist.


One Hour Before Class
Make sure that you have the most up to date version of the Zoom app. Not sure how to do that? Click HERE


15 Minutes Before Class
You will be able to join the event about 15 minutes before the beginning of the event. Be sure to have your materials kit, as well as paper, pen/pencil, and other notions you think you may need. 

Set yourself up in a quiet location, and if possible, wear headphones. Turn off any television, radio, or other source of sound.


When Class Begins
Each attendee will be "muted" when they enter the room. We encourage you to stay muted, and to utilize the chat room for questions. Our instructors have assistants that will relay questions during the event, and as needed, will call on students to unmute themselves to ask questions.

Classes are only offered live and will not be recorded.

Refunds/Cancelations
Attendees can cancel and get a refund for the workshop portion of a class up until the time sign-in information has been delivered for the workshop. The materials fee is not refundable

Something Isn't Working
Having troubles? Try leaving the event, and then join again. If that doesn't solve the issue, restart your device and rejoin the class. If you continue to experience issues, please call 206-747-7121, or email us hello@makersmercantile.com